How to make stall bars (aka Swedish bars)
One single set:
From Lowes (HD doesn’t have the dowels and has better quality 2x6x8’s)
8 x “Madison Mill 1-3/8-in x 6-ft Round Poplar Dowels cut into 3 ft lengths”
2 x “2 x 6 x 8 #2 Kiln-Dried Whitewood S4S Dimensional Lumber”
2 x 1ft peices of “2 x 6 x 8 #2 Kiln-Dried (for pull up bar)
1 x “IRWIN SPEEDBOR 1-3/8-in Woodboring Spade Drill Bit”
2 x L-brackets 4.5 x 4.5
box of wood screws 6 x 1 3/4 for holding dowels
box of wood screws 10 x 1 3/4 for mounting l-brackets and backing plate
box of M6 screws for mounting to bars to the studs
Wood drill bits for pre-drilling holes 1 size smaller than screws
1 x “1-in x 6-in x 8-ft Kiln-Dried Cedar Board” for the backing board
2 x straight steel bars with holes for securing the top bars
8 x “Madison Mill 1-3/8-in x 6-ft Round Poplar Dowels cut into 3 ft lengths”
2 x “2 x 6 x 8 #2 Kiln-Dried Whitewood S4S Dimensional Lumber”
2 x 1ft peices of “2 x 6 x 8 #2 Kiln-Dried (for pull up bar)
1 x “IRWIN SPEEDBOR 1-3/8-in Woodboring Spade Drill Bit”
2 x L-brackets 4.5 x 4.5
box of wood screws 6 x 1 3/4 for holding dowels
box of wood screws 10 x 1 3/4 for mounting l-brackets and backing plate
box of M6 screws for mounting to bars to the studs
Wood drill bits for pre-drilling holes 1 size smaller than screws
1 x “1-in x 6-in x 8-ft Kiln-Dried Cedar Board” for the backing board
2 x straight steel bars with holes for securing the top bars
Get to it:
Drill holes 1″ deep (see the sharpie mark on the bit) in the 2x6x8 at 6in intervals for the bars, start at about 8in from the bottom and you can space the top one out some more
See pictures for more info.
See pictures for more info.
Notes:
If you dont cut-out the backing board you wont have to notch the bottom of the bars, easier and less work.
Pre mark each end of the dowel 1″ in from the end with a pencil to see how far they are in.
The dowels will just fit, use a wood block and hammer to make sure they are in (hammer away)
To install lay one 2x6x8 on the ground, push and then hammer in the dowels (wood block between the hammer and dowels)
Place the other 2x6x8 on top and then work you way up and down to hammer the board down (sounds easier than it is)
Use thin screws to drill through 2x6x8 into dowls (extra pull and security) always re-drill
Check the re-enforcement of the block for mounting the chin up bar, don’t scrimp and pre-drill
If you dont cut-out the backing board you wont have to notch the bottom of the bars, easier and less work.
Pre mark each end of the dowel 1″ in from the end with a pencil to see how far they are in.
The dowels will just fit, use a wood block and hammer to make sure they are in (hammer away)
To install lay one 2x6x8 on the ground, push and then hammer in the dowels (wood block between the hammer and dowels)
Place the other 2x6x8 on top and then work you way up and down to hammer the board down (sounds easier than it is)
Use thin screws to drill through 2x6x8 into dowls (extra pull and security) always re-drill
Check the re-enforcement of the block for mounting the chin up bar, don’t scrimp and pre-drill
After you have made them, check out:
